Here's another winner from the guys at Histoires De Parfums. Recently released as part of the series Edition Rare together with Petroleum (mineral) and Rosam (vegetative), Ambrarem is supposed to be the animalic one. It strikes as a bold yet incredibly balanced concoction of spicy/peppery oud and vanilla with a strong castoreum presence and leathery/resiny undertones. A touch of iris provides a subtle creamy/lipstick vibe while saffron enhances the oriental quality of the oud. On top of this, you have to add what looks like being the signature of this series: a mineral, sort of watery/marine note juxtaposed to the cumbersome presence of all the other elements.
If compared to the one in Petroleum, the aforementioned marine accord, is definitely toned down and sort of overwhelmed by the bold warmness provided by the oud/amber combo. Don't get me wrong, if you can't stand watery/aquatic notes in perfumery, you'll probably won't like Ambrarem either but if you're fine with the style, you'll probably discover a terrific and modern representation of the oriental genre.
That being said I still think Petroleum is the most original of the lot because of its civet/aldehydes/oud combo that is quite an experience (swimming against the stream here), but if you're into slightly dirty ambers that are bold and wearable at the same time, you can't go wrong with Ambrarem.
Rating: 8/10
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